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The Isles of Scilly
The BBC2 documentary “An Island Parish” is now into its third series. This programme has certainly given the Isles of Scilly the recognition they deserve. The islands lie almost 30 miles out to sea from the most southerly tip of Cornwall. Sailing from Penzance, there are excellent views of Land’s End. The Isles of Scilly belong to the Duchy of Cornwall, and are noted for their abundance of early spring flowers, areas of natural beauty and warm climate. I was surprised to learn that a total of 51 islands comprise the Scillies, but only 5 are inhabited.
While we were on holiday in Cornwall this summer, my husband and I took the opportunity to go on a day trip to St Mary’s, the largest of the islands. My husband enjoys visiting islands, the more remote the better! What I didn’t bargain for this time, was the rather lengthy sail we found ourselves on. I was under the mistaken impression that visiting the Scillies would involve a leisurely cruise from the mainland, but not on your life! The day before we set sail, our tour guide reminded us that it would be an early start – rise and shine at 6a.m., breakfast at 7 a.m., leave the hotel at 8 a.m. prompt by coach to Penzance Harbour. Everyone had to board the boat by 9 a.m. for the 9.30 a.m. departure on Scillonian 3.
As soon as I discovered that the boat was a passenger ship capable of carrying 400 people, it began to dawn that this would be no mere short cruise. Fortunately the weather was set fair, and after a few words from the Captain and a blast or two from the ship’s horn, we were at last on the way to St Mary’s. There is access to the islands by helicopter or flights if people prefer, but these are far more expensive. The sail, a regular one, is noted for its choppy waters, and people began to lurch around the ship to get from point A to point B. Believe me, trying to carry two cartons of tea in these conditions, (after assuring my husband I’d be OK), proved rather tricky. Luckily, our guide noticed my dilemma and gallantly rescued this damsel in distress! My husband, blissfully unaware of the situation as he scanned the horizon through binoculars, was rather taken aback by the turn of events. Over 2½ hours later, however, we reached Hugh town Harbour, St Mary’s, relatively unscathed after the rock n roll voyage on Scillonian 3.
On the island, we were struck by its unusual aura of light, and captivated by colourful displays of flowers growing over the sea walls. After a packed lunch, we were quickly whisked off by a local coach driver, who organized trips around the island. The Scilly Islands are largely dependent on the tourist trade for their livelihood.
All too soon, our few hours’ visit to St Mary’s drew to a close, and along with other passengers we made our way back to the harbour for the return journey. This time the weather really did us proud, and many of us were able to bask in the sunshine on deck. It was a lovely sail back to Penzance, as everyone seemed more relaxed and eager to recapture the events of the day.
To return to the documentary “An Island Parish”, many of the islanders’ lives come under close scrutiny. Early on in the present series, tourism officer Sophie travelled to London to extol the virtues of the Scilly Isles at an international exhibition – in a drive to boost the holiday trade. Four intrepid sailors plan to row across the Atlantic, with the prayerful support and blessing of Reverend David Easton, a resident minister. Life from its many perspectives is well-portrayed in the series. School children from the islands also visited London, to give them a taste of city life; how different it must have seemed after the peace and tranquillity of their usual environment.
The Isles of Scilly come under the authority of Truro Council. We were able to view the magnificent Cathedral at Truro from the outskirts of the city. It was interesting, therefore, to see in a recent programme, the retirement Service of Bishop Bill – a well-known and much loved visitor to the islands in his diocese. I am sure Truro Cathedral was bursting at the seams on that day! Bishop Bill was very committed to the welfare of the islands and their people; he will be missed.
So to end my reminiscences of a brief visit to the Isles of Scilly – I am fortunate to have been able to sample something of their unique attraction. If you are looking for shopping malls, I advise you not to go! Although there are adequate shops to cater for most needs.
Freda Rothwell |